Antique Victorian Earrings Pendant Brooch Gold Turquoise Diamonds Pearls set (6787)

Antique Victorian Napoleon III, Classic Revival parure set - earrings / ear pendants and pendant brooch. 18k gold, turquoise, rose-cut diamonds, pearls. Made circa 1850-80. French. 

Measurements: Weight is 36.6 grams. Length of pendant-brooch:approximately 3 1/4 inches (85mm). Length of earrings, excluding wires is approximately 2 1/4 inches (65mm). 

Description : Made in the Archaeological Revival period at the height of French accomplishment in jewelry workmanship and artistic production. The earrings and pendant-brooch are long, dramatic and elegant, harkening to the magnificent work of the Ancient Classics. Small surmounts are gold and turquoise flowers. The cabochon turquoise held in claws of gold. Loops connect to a scalloped gold scrolling lattice, echoed even more ornately at the bottom, surrounding the concentric rings of the main body of the jewels. Each of these circles is composed of an outer layer of very finely calibre set turquoise around a rope-twist gold inner border that in turn surrounds a flower with central pearl and diamonds radiating like sun rays or finely set petals. Pearls are believed to be natural as there were not cultured pearls at the time.   

The pendant brooch has another pair of slightly smaller pearls on either side of the central section. They are held in openwork gold prongs with scrolling gold ribbons underneath. A pair of loops would allow the pendant to be connected to a chain if so desired. Below the bottom of the body are a number of loops, each suspending a knife-edge bar of gold in graduated length, forming a fringe. Long fringes set with cabochon turquoise and tiny gold flowers move independently of the wearer and of one another. They provide an additional sense of movement to the earrings and brooch. 

Bale of pendant is large and will accommodate a ribbon or large chain if necessary. It is also set with calibre-set turquoise, matching the rest of the jewel. C-clasp is hinged and folds to accommodate the pin. Wires of earrings were replaced. 

Design, materials and workmanship are superb. It is very rare to find a set like this intact. Quality and beauty like this are very rare. The great condition adds to their desireability. 

Marks and Metal: French eagle heads for 18k gold, made in Paris, to be found on sides of earrings and pendant - brooch. Also found on pin. 

Condition: Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Besides the wires, all parts appear to be original. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer. 

Henri Vever, in his encyclopaedic volumes on French jewelry and jewellers of the 19th century, has a section devoted to a designer called Eugene Julienne, who designed for a very wide range of Paris jewellers, including Cartier. He wrote a book on his designs called La Pandora. We photographed page 727 of Vever's book in which two pairs of earrings with more than a passing resemblance to this wonderful pair of earrings, are shown. Unfortunately, they are not in color.