Antique Victorian Brooch Locket 18k Gold Turquoise Diamonds Pearls French (6896)

Antique Victorian Napoleon III locket brooch. 18k yellow gold, turquoise, rose cut diamonds and pearls. Made in France circa 1873. Attributed to Paul Robins. Independent appraisal.

 

Measurements: Weight is 18.5 grams. 1 1/4 inches (slightly over 3cm) long; Approximately 1 1/8 inches (a little under 3cm) wide.

 

Description : Oval brooch. Outer ring of pearls a little lower in height than the raised, central gently domed oval. Very finely set with navette shaped turquoise cut between a cabochon and a gentle facet on the apex. Turquoise are arranged stars or crosses. Rose cut diamonds are pave set between the turquoise and the central points where they meet have a miniscule globe of gold. Workmanship is exceptionally fine. Details of workmanship are astonishing - please see detailed in enlarged pictures.

 

A scalloped gallery raises the brooch somewhat, allowing space behind it for a concealed locket. A lock of very fine blond hair is enclosed in the locket. 

 

Hinged pin with c-clasp. The c-clasp is raised on a base and with a very finely made lever to close the c and provide an extra level of security.

 

The scalloped gallery that raises the brooch and encloses the locket has a number of screws, very well hidden on the sides, that allow the locket to open. In this way the hair can be exchanged or a miniature portrait enclosed to replace it. A minute 'stalk' of gold is also hidden amongst these scallops. We believe it might have once supported a bale, allowing the piece to be worn as a pendant.

 

Henri Vever's book, French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century, page 809 shows a picture of a pendant locket with the identical turquoise and diamond work by Paul Robin, dated 1873. It is also shown on page 826. The locket does not include the pearl border as our brooch does. Vever has a lengthy discussion of the work of the Robins firm, calling it "one of the most distinguished in Paris under Louis-Philippe and Napoleon III...".

 

Marks and Metal: base of c of clasp has French owl mark for 18k. The pin also has the owl mark.

 

Condition: Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. As is to be expected after 150 years, some of the turquoise has negligible wear/discoloration that does not detract from the overall beauty of this brooch. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer. Independent appraisal with value of $8355.00 available to new owner upon request.